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Fixing Armhole Gaping – Shoulder Slope Adjustment

Fixing Armhole Gaping – Shoulder Slope Adjustment

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowFixing Armhole Gaping - Shoulder Slope AdjustmentReady for another super common pattern adjustment in tops? The issue: Gaping Armholes. This is the first in a series of posts that discuss...

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Loosen Up your Pants Pattern on the Calf Area

Loosen Up your Pants Pattern on the Calf Area

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowLoosen a Pants Pattern on the Calf AreaIt’s very uncomfortable to move when the pants are too tight around the calf area. Tapered or skinny pants shouldn’t feel restraining. In this post, you’ll...

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Fixing Diagonal Hems on Shorts

Fixing Diagonal Hems on Shorts

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowFixing Diagonal Hems on ShortsWhat to do when the legs of the shorts “wing” out and the hemline is not horizontal but more like in a v shape? This issue is very obvious in shorts (not as...

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Pocket Opening Corrections – Gaping Straight Pockets

Pocket Opening Corrections – Gaping Straight Pockets

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowPocket Opening Corrections – Gaping Straight PocketsHave you ever noticed a straight pocket opening peaking? Of course, we will always get a slight peaking on a straight pocket opening because...

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Fix Deep Creases Under the Backside of Pants

Fix Deep Creases Under the Backside of Pants

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowFix Deep Creases Under the BacksideThis is a pattern correction for people with flat backsides or forward-tilted pelvises. You can get a lot of excess fabric in the back here. To see if you can...

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Fix Back Diagonal Draglines on Pants – Part 2

Fix Back Diagonal Draglines on Pants – Part 2

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowFix Back Diagonal Draglines on Pants – Part 2Back diagonal draglines on pants don’t look and feel nice. In the previous post, we saw in which cases they’re acceptable and where to pin your...

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Fix Back Diagonal Draglines on Pants – Part 1

Fix Back Diagonal Draglines on Pants – Part 1

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowFix Back Diagonal Draglines on Pants – Part 1Back diagonal draglines on pants don’t look and feel nice. In this post, we’ll see in which cases they’re acceptable and where to pin your garment in...

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Tight Front Rise (Camel Toe) Correction

Tight Front Rise (Camel Toe) Correction

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowTight Front Rise (Camel Toe) CorrectionA camel toe is a phrase we use in garment-making when the front rise curve is too tight, but there’s also extra fabric in that curve. As a result, the...

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Prevent Front Rise Wrinkles on Pants Patterns

Prevent Front Rise Wrinkles on Pants Patterns

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowPrevent Front Rise Wrinkles on Pants PatternsWhiskers are for Cats! We want to avoid them in our pants along that front curve of the rise. This post covers the first thing to keep in mind when...

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Truing the Patterns of Pants and Shorts

Truing the Patterns of Pants and Shorts

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowTruing the Patterns of PantsLet’s talk about balancing base pants patterns. These are the most important basic pattern rules when we speak of having a balanced pattern. It’s the beginning of...

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Pattern Corrections for Bottoms – Waist Too Tight

Pattern Corrections for Bottoms – Waist Too Tight

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowPattern Corrections for Bottoms – Waist Too TightHave you ever had a garment with horizontal draglines? It’s a sign that your garment is too tight somewhere. This correction is for a waistline...

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Pattern Corrections for Bottoms – Hips Too Tight

Pattern Corrections for Bottoms – Hips Too Tight

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowPattern Corrections for Bottoms – Hips Too TightHave you ever had a garment with horizontal draglines? It’s a sign that your garment is too tight somewhere. In this post, we’ll see how to...

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Center Back Hiking Up – No Yoke

Center Back Hiking Up – No Yoke

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowCenter Back Hiking Up – No YokeWhen you look at the bottom hem from the side profile view, you notice the center back is hiking up and not leveling with the sides/front. You may also notice...

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Center Back Hiking Up – With Yoke

Center Back Hiking Up – With Yoke

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowCenter Back Hiking Up – With YokeHave you ever seen the issue when the Center-Back hem hikes up too much? When you look at the bottom hem from the side profile view, you notice the center back...

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Small Bust Adjustment – No Darts or Princess Seams

Small Bust Adjustment – No Darts or Princess Seams

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowSmall Bust Adjustment - No Darts or Princess SeamsMost sewing patterns are made with B-cup bust sizes. That means if you have a smaller bust cup size, you’ll likely need to do a small bust...

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Small Bust Adjustment – French Darts

Small Bust Adjustment – French Darts

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowSmall Bust Adjustment - French DartsMost sewing patterns are made with B-cup bust sizes. That means if you have a smaller bust cup size, you’ll likely need to do a small bust adjustment. In this...

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Small Bust Adjustment – Princess Seams

Small Bust Adjustment – Princess Seams

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowSmall Bust Adjustment - Princess SeamsMost sewing patterns are made with B-cup bust sizes. That means if you have a smaller bust cup size, you’ll likely need to do a small bust adjustment. In...

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Small Bust Adjustment – Side Darts

Small Bust Adjustment – Side Darts

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowSmall Bust Adjustment (SBA) - Side DartsMost sewing patterns are made with B-cup bust sizes. That means if you have a smaller bust cup size, you’ll likely need to do a small bust adjustment. I...

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Full Bust Adjustment – No Darts or Princess Seams

Full Bust Adjustment – No Darts or Princess Seams

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowFull Bust Adjustment - No Darts or Princess SeamsMost sewing patterns are made with B-cup bust sizes. If you have a larger bust cup size, you’ll likely need to do a full bust adjustment. You’ll...

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Full Bust Adjustment – French Darts

Full Bust Adjustment – French Darts

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowFull Bust Adjustment - French DartsMost sewing patterns are made with B-cup bust sizes. If you have a larger bust cup size, you’ll likely need to do a full bust adjustment. You’ll know if you...

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Full Bust Adjustment – Princess Seams

Full Bust Adjustment – Princess Seams

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowFull Bust Adjustment - Princess SeamsThis is by far the easiest Full Bust Adjustment there is!!! 😲Get ready for this one; you’re going to LOVE it. 💝 Please excuse my voice and stuffy nose in...

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Full Bust Adjustment – When Having or Adding Side Darts

Full Bust Adjustment – When Having or Adding Side Darts

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowFull Bust Adjustment - When Having or Adding Side DartsHere is a hot topic: Full Bust Adjustments! Most sewing patterns are made with B-cup bust sizes, meaning that if you have a larger bust cup...

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Sleeve Corrections – Bicep Too Small

Sleeve Corrections – Bicep Too Small

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowSleeve Corrections - Bicep Too SmallThe symptom for a small bicep can be horizontal draglines, or it may simply feel too tight. This correction is also great for making the sleeve cap wider if...

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Sleeve Corrections – Bicep Too Big

Sleeve Corrections – Bicep Too Big

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowSleeve Corrections - Bicep Too BigThe appearance of a big bicep can be a vertical dragline, or it might just feel too big. This correction also reduces the sleeve cap width, and we increase the...

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Get the Right Measure of your Sleeve Cap – Width

Get the Right Measure of your Sleeve Cap – Width

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowGet the Right Measure of your Sleeve Cap - WidthLet’s learn how to measure the sleeve cap correctly. We already spoke about the cap height, now for the cap width for the best fitting sleeve for...

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Get the Right Measure of your Sleeve Cap – Height

Get the Right Measure of your Sleeve Cap – Height

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowGet the Right Measure of your Sleeve Cap - HeightLet's learn how to measure the sleeve cap properly. This post is about the height of the cap and the next one will cover the width. A good...

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How the Sleeve Cap Height Affects Movement and Draglines

How the Sleeve Cap Height Affects Movement and Draglines

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowHow the Sleeve Cap Affects Movement and DraglinesLet’s talk about cap heights on your sewing patterns. The cap height is measured up from the straight line connecting the arm’s eye on the sleeve...

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How to Get a Perfect Fit on Sleeves

How to Get a Perfect Fit on Sleeves

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowHow to Get a Perfect Fit in SleevesHere are some basic tips for getting a nice fitting sleeve on your sewing pattern. We start off with a symmetrical sleeve when it’s folded in half lengthwise...

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How to Lower High Armholes – Option 3

How to Lower High Armholes – Option 3

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowHow to Lower High Armholes - Option 3Follow these steps if your draglines seem excessive and especially if they point towards the high point shoulder area (HPS). 1. Pin the low point shoulder...

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How to Lower High Armholes – Option 2

How to Lower High Armholes – Option 2

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowHow to Lower High Armholes - Option 2In this series of posts, we discuss what to do when the armhole is too high. We all know how uncomfortable those high armholes feel! Here is option 2 for...

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How to Lower High Armholes – Option 1

How to Lower High Armholes – Option 1

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowHow to Lower High Armholes - Option 1In this series of posts, we discuss what to do when the armhole is too high. We all know how those high armholes feel! Not nice at all! 🙄😞😫 Here is option 1...

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How to Raise Low Armholes – Option 3

How to Raise Low Armholes – Option 3

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowHow to Raise Low Armholes - Option 3In this series of 3 posts, we discuss what to do when the armhole is too low. There are many ways of correcting low shoulders, but here we discuss the top 3...

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How to Raise Low Armholes – Option 2

How to Raise Low Armholes – Option 2

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowHow to Raise Low Armholes - Option 2In this series of 3 posts, we discuss what to do when the armhole is too low. There are many ways of correcting low shoulders, but here we discuss the top 3...

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How to Raise Low Armholes – Option 1

How to Raise Low Armholes – Option 1

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowHow to Raise Low Armholes - Option 1In this series of 3 posts, we discuss what to do when the armhole is too low. There are many ways of correcting low armholes, but here we discuss the top 3 of...

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Fixing Armhole Gaping: Set-in Sleeve Correction

Fixing Armhole Gaping: Set-in Sleeve Correction

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowFixing Armhole Gaping: Set-in Sleeve CorrectionThis post is part of a series that discusses corrections for gaping armholes in different style patterns, meaning they don’t sit close to the body....

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Fixing Armhole Gaping – Adding Darts

Fixing Armhole Gaping – Adding Darts

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowFixing Armhole Gaping - Adding DartsThis post is part of a series that discusses corrections for gaping armholes in different style patterns, meaning they don’t sit close to the body. Here’s the...

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Fixing Armhole Gaping – Patterns with Side Darts

Fixing Armhole Gaping – Patterns with Side Darts

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowFixing Armhole Gaping - Patterns with Side DartsThis post is part of a series that discusses corrections for gaping armholes in different style patterns, meaning they don’t sit close to the...

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Fixing Armhole Gaping – Princess Seams

Fixing Armhole Gaping – Princess Seams

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowFixing Armhole Gaping - Princess SeamsThis post is part of a series that discusses corrections for gaping armholes in different style patterns. Armholes! Why are they the hardest to fit?! Well,...

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Adding Sleeves to Sleeveless Patterns

Adding Sleeves to Sleeveless Patterns

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowAdding Sleeves to Sleeveless PatternsWhat are the main differences between a sleeveless tank top versus a top with sleeves? What do you need to do when you want to add a sleeve to a sleeveless...

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Reducing the Back Width from Across the Armholes

Reducing the Back Width from Across the Armholes

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowReducing the Back Width from Across the ArmholesThis is the biggest battle with designers! So many designers I’ve worked with always question why we need to have a little extra fabric in the...

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Increasing the Front Width from Across the Armholes

Increasing the Front Width from Across the Armholes

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowIncreasing the Front Width from Across the ArmholesWhat do you do when the “across front” area is too SMALL, too tight, but you’re happy with the shoulder position? If you’ve ever had this...

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Reducing the Front Width from Across the Armholes

Reducing the Front Width from Across the Armholes

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowReducing the Front Width from Across the ArmholesWhat do you do when the “across front” area is too BIG or has too much excess, but you’re happy with the shoulder position? If you’ve ever had...

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Narrow Shoulders Corrections – Move the Armhole

Narrow Shoulders Corrections – Move the Armhole

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowNarrow Shoulders Corrections - Move the ArmholeIn case the slash-and-spread method is just too much to figure out, you can use this much easier method for increasing the shoulder width. The...

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Narrow Shoulders Corrections – Slash and Spread

Narrow Shoulders Corrections – Slash and Spread

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowNarrow Shoulders Corrections - Slash and SpreadThis correction is very similar to the “shoulders too wide” correction, but instead of slashing the amount shut, we are actually opening it. The...

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Wide Shoulders Corrections – Adjust the Armhole

Wide Shoulders Corrections – Adjust the Armhole

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowWide Shoulders Corrections - Adjust the ArmholeWhat can you do if your armhole seam hangs too far past the low point shoulder tip (LPS)? It may feel like the shoulders are too wide, or it may...

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Wide Shoulders Corrections – Modifying the Slope

Wide Shoulders Corrections – Modifying the Slope

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowWide Shoulders Corrections - Modifying the SlopeWhat can you do if your armhole seam hangs too far past the low point shoulder tip (LPS)? It may feel like the shoulders are too wide, or it may...

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Find Your Exact Low Point Shoulder (LPS)

Find Your Exact Low Point Shoulder (LPS)

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowFind Your Exact Low Point Shoulder (LPS)Obtaining the correct shoulder width is critical in achieving a well-fitted garment. The right shoulder width for your body will reduce the draglines,...

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Fixing Back Neck Gaping – Step 2: Darts

Fixing Back Neck Gaping – Step 2: Darts

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowFixing Back Neck Gaping - Step 2: DartsThis is the sixth and last post of a series about neckline fitting corrections. This time you'll see the second step to fix back neck gaping issues. If you...

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Fixing Back Neck Gaping – Step 1: Width Correction

Fixing Back Neck Gaping – Step 1: Width Correction

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowFixing Back Neck Gaping - Step 1: Width CorrectionThis is the fifth post of a series about neckline fitting corrections. This time you'll see the first step to fix back neck gaping issues. If...

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Fixing Horizontal Draglines at the Neck

Fixing Horizontal Draglines at the Neck

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowFixing Horizontal Draglines at the NeckThis is the fourth post of a series about neckline fitting corrections. This time you'll see how to fix those horizontal draglines at the neck. These lines...

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Fixing Neck Gaping – Princess Seams from the Shoulder

Fixing Neck Gaping – Princess Seams from the Shoulder

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowFixing Neck Gaping - Princess Seams from the ShoulderThis is the third post of a series about neckline fitting corrections. We are looking at front neck gaping issues, which can happen for...

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Fixing Neck Gaping – Princess Seams from the Armhole

Fixing Neck Gaping – Princess Seams from the Armhole

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowFixing Neck Gaping – Princess Seams from the ArmholeThis correction discusses the front neckline gaping when there is a princess seam. The first thing we need to check is the neck width from the...

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Fixing Front Neck Gaping – No Princess Seams

Fixing Front Neck Gaping – No Princess Seams

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowFixing Front Neck Gaping - No Princess SeamsThis is the first post of a series about neckline fitting corrections. In this post, the correction discusses the front neckline gaping. It can happen...

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Is your Pattern Balanced? – Knit and Woven Tops

Is your Pattern Balanced? – Knit and Woven Tops

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowIs your Pattern Balanced? - Knit and Woven TopsLet’s talk about patternmaking rules for knit tops and woven tops, for example, blouses, dress bodices, tee-shirts... garments made for stretchable...

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Is your Pattern Balanced? – Jacket and Coat Patterns

Is your Pattern Balanced? – Jacket and Coat Patterns

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowIs your Pattern Balanced? - Jacket and Coat PatternsAnd so we begin! This is the first of two posts looking at how to check if a sewing pattern for a top is balanced and how it would be shaped....

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Truing the Patterns of your Tops

Truing the Patterns of your Tops

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowTruing the Patterns of your TopsLet's take a look at 90-degree angles 📐and continuous seams ♾ for top sewing patterns. The main rules for tops 👚👕🥼👔are as follow: 1. The center front and center...

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Using Pattern Rulers – The French Curve

Using Pattern Rulers – The French Curve

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowUsing Pattern Rulers - The French CurveNot all French Curves are created equal. After trying many of those for tops, the Lance FC-1 9" has been a tried and true French Curve. It's perfect for...

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Understanding the Importance of Darts in Sewing

Understanding the Importance of Darts in Sewing

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowUnderstanding the Importance of Darts in SewingBack waist darts in pants and skirts slopers are not optional. It's important to add one dart in the back because it makes it much easier to...

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Using Pattern Rulers – The Hip Curve

Using Pattern Rulers – The Hip Curve

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowUsing Pattern Rulers - The Hip CurveNot all tools are created equal. Here I show you one of my favorite tools; it makes pattern-making so much easier. This is the Fairgate hip curve, which can...

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How to Measure the Stretch Amount in Fabric

How to Measure the Stretch Amount in Fabric

View this VideoThrough QR Codes inThe Fitting BookBuy The Fitting Book NowHow to Measure the Stretch Amount in FabricIf you are making a garment out of a knit or stretchable fabric, use a similar stretching fabric for a fitting sample. The most important...

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