Wide Shoulders Corrections – Modifying the Slope
What can you do if your armhole seam hangs too far past the low point shoulder tip (LPS)? It may feel like the shoulders are too wide, or it may look like they are too wide. There are two pattern correction options to reduce wide shoulders on your garment. This is the first of two useful ways.
This post discusses how to fix it from the shoulder seam. The good thing about this correction: the sleeve does not need to be adjusted because the armhole is the same. The bad thing is that the shoulder slope is no longer the same. It’s been adjusted and has a slightly different slope. Here’s how to do it:
1. Identify the issue: The LPS is too high at the armhole area. You may have draglines from being too tight in the “across front” area.
2. Slash open the armhole at the LPS, then tape and pin the amount you want to increase the across shoulder area at the armhole.
3. Measure the amount you’ve taped and note it down.
4. Mark your bodice pattern with a straight line from about 1/3 of the way up the shoulder seam to the curve of the armhole.
5. Draw a second line from the LPS to the midway area of the first line.
6. Cut along those lines, to zero at the armhole join and zero at the LPS
7. Slash the main line and open it; the same amount you’ve taped.
8. The second line will join the shoulder seam and you will redraw the shoulder seam straight again.
9. Don’t forget to do the same correction to the back bodice piece.
This information and more can be found in The Fitting Book. Order your book today through the link below.