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Fixing Armhole Gaping – Princess Seams

This post is part of a series that discusses corrections for gaping armholes in different style patterns. Armholes! Why are they the hardest to fit?! Well, we all have different shapes! Today’s correction will dive into gaping armholes, meaning they don’t sit close to the body.

This correction is also an alternative to a full bust adjustment, meaning you could take the bust size of your pattern and reduce the armhole instead. However, bear in mind that sometimes you’ll need to also adjust the bust to complement this correction.

To reduce the gaping on a style with Princess seams, follow these steps:
1. Pin the amount that’s gaping. Do this in the direction of the apex.
2. Measure the amount and locations you’ve pinned. Then mark the pattern that location and amount.
3. Notice when you pin the sample, did the armhole become too high in the feeling of your garment?
4. Close the pattern by folding that amount shut and taping the pattern piece.
5. Then, join the side panel to the Adjoining pattern piece and smooth out the armhole.
6. If the armhole felt too high after you’ve pinned it, you could lower the armhole the amount you feel is necessary.

This correction can also be used in the back armhole, but the front armhole most commonly shows this issue.

This information and more can be found in The Fitting Book. Order your book today through the link below.

Learn the 3-Step
Fitting Process:

  • A) Identify the Fitting Issue.
  • B) Pin, Cut, & Tape the Fitting Sample.
  • C) Correct the Sewing Pattern.
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