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Fixing Armhole Gaping – Woven Raglan Sleeve with Shoulder Darts – Option 1

How do you fix the infamous Raglan sleeve gaping? Well, this is one option. This correction is specific to woven shirts with shoulder darts, but it also works for knits with no darts. It’s very common with raglan sleeves to have some gaping in the armholes because we’re asking the fabric to wrap all the way around the shoulder tip with very little pattern shaping.
1. Pin the sample in the front armhole and measure the amount pinned.
2. If you pin 3/8” (1cm) or less, you can try this correction. If you pin more, you’ll want to wait for the next correction.
3. Mark the pattern for the amount you’ve pinned and continue those lines to the tip of the dart on the shoulder.
4. Fold that amount shut.
5. The dart automatically becomes deeper. Sometimes, you might want to lengthen the tip of the dart so it doesn’t become too pointy.
6. Smooth out the new sleeve front armhole seam.
7. You’ll need to adjust the front body by raising the front armhole and possibly lowering the front neckline.
8. Join the new sleeve and new front body together to cross-check that the new seam lines are smooth and continuous.

This information and more can be found in The Fitting Book. Order your book today through the link below.

Learn the 3-Step
Fitting Process:

  • A) Identify the Fitting Issue.
  • B) Pin, Cut, & Tape the Fitting Sample.
  • C) Correct the Sewing Pattern.


  • This Fitting Book Includes:
  • ~ Tops ~
  • ~ Pants ~
  • ~ Skirts/Dresses ~
  • ~ My Secret in Diagonal Draglines ~

It’s Time to Sew Clothes You Love that Fit.