How the Sleeve Cap Affects Movement and Draglines
Let’s talk about cap heights on your sewing patterns. The cap height is measured up from the straight line connecting the arm’s eye on the sleeve pattern.
There are extreme examples of the cap heights in this video to show the biggest difference. For example, a ski/snowboard/climbing jacket may have a super short cap height, as shown here.
The shorter the cap height, the better the lift is, meaning the garment doesn’t lift as much when the arms are lifted to the sides. However, there will be more draglines when the arms are in the down position. The taller the cap height, the worse the garment lift is. However, when the arms are down, there will be very few draglines under the arm.
If your sleeve feels too restricting when the arms lift, try lowering the cap height. If you have too many draglines under the arm, try adding to the cap height.
You may wonder what the perfect cap height is in pattern making. As you can see from the video, every style is different for this point of measure. It’s based on the function or layer of the garment.
This information and more can be found in The Fitting Book. Order your book today through the link below.