Small Bust Adjustment (SBA) – Side Darts

Most sewing patterns are made with B-cup bust sizes. That means if you have a smaller bust cup size, you’ll likely need to do a small bust adjustment. I show it here with only a side dart on this example.

1. If you have excess in the bust area, pin your sample as shown and measure the amount you’ve pinned.
2. Come back to the pattern and slash it open as shown, stopping just before the armhole. And on the side dart line, stopping just before the Apex.

3. Allow the Apex to overlap the amount you measured in your sample (closing out that amount).
4. Then allow the side panel to raise up until it reaches a parallel line on the vertical line.
5. Your dart becomes less deep and, in some cases, possibly eliminates it, depending on the amount you’ve overlapped.
6. Your dart position may need to change to where the Apex is. Since we closed it up, this has raised our dart. Many times, you don’t need to change the dart position.

The only downside of it is that it also decreases your waist. If you don’t need the waist/hem to become smaller, you would add on the side seams.

This information and more can be found in The Fitting Book. Order your book today through the link below.

Learn the 3-Step Fitting Process:

A) Identify the Fitting Issue.

B) Pin, Cut, & Tape the Fitting Sample.

C) Correct the Sewing Pattern.

The Fitting Book Includes:




My Secret in Diagonal Draglines


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