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Fixing Armhole Gaping – Woven Raglan Sleeve without Shoulder Darts

Have you ever wondered how to add a dart to a raglan sleeve in order to improve the fit? Here’s how! If your raglan pattern doesn’t have a shoulder dart, you may want to add a dart to improve the fit. This correction is specific to woven, non-stretchy fabrics. It’s very common with raglan sleeves to have some gaping in the armholes because we’re asking the fabric to wrap all the way around the shoulder tip with very little pattern shaping.
1. Cut your sample vertically and horizontally at the shoulder tip
2. Tape and pin it open at the shoulder tip, measuring the amount you opened. By opening the garment, it should allow the garment to rest on the shoulder, so there is no gaping at the neckline of the sleeve.
3. Mark the pattern for the horizontal and vertical lines.
4. Cut the pattern open as shown and allow the pieces to open up the amount you’ve taped/pinned your garment open.
5. The dart is automatically added. You can mark the dart to end about 3/8” (1cm) from the top of the shoulder.

This information and more can be found in The Fitting Book. Order your book today through the link below.

Learn the 3-Step
Fitting Process:

  • A) Identify the Fitting Issue.
  • B) Pin, Cut, & Tape the Fitting Sample.
  • C) Correct the Sewing Pattern.


  • This Fitting Book Includes:
  • ~ Tops ~
  • ~ Pants ~
  • ~ Skirts/Dresses ~
  • ~ My Secret in Diagonal Draglines ~

It’s Time to Sew Clothes You Love that Fit.