Fixing Armhole Gaping – Woven Raglan Sleeve with Shoulder Darts – Option 2

Raglan sleeve gaping is such a common fitting issue! Here are two more options just for you 😊. This correction is specific to woven shirts with shoulder darts, but it also works for knits with no darts. It’s very common with raglan sleeves to have some gaping in the armholes because we’re asking the fabric to wrap all the way around the shoulder tip with very little pattern shaping.

1. Cut your sample vertically or horizontally (or do one sleeve each way to see which side looks better).
2. Whichever option you go with, tape and pin it open at the shoulder tip, measuring the amount you open.
3. Mark the pattern for either option as shown (either vertically or horizontally)
4. Cut the pattern open as shown and allow the pieces to open up the amount you’ve taped/pinned your garment open.
5. The dart automatically becomes deeper. Sometimes, you might want to lengthen the tip of the dart so it doesn’t become too pointy.

This information and more can be found in The Fitting Book. Order your book today through the link below.

Learn the 3-Step Fitting Process:

A) Identify the Fitting Issue.

B) Pin, Cut, & Tape the Fitting Sample.

C) Correct the Sewing Pattern.

The Fitting Book Includes:




My Secret in Diagonal Draglines


It’s Time to Sew Clothes You Love that Fit.