Is your Pattern Balanced? – Knit and Woven Tops

Let’s talk about patternmaking rules for knit tops and woven tops, for example, blouses, dress bodices, tee-shirts… garments made for stretchable knit fabrics. 💜 Compared to what you saw in the previous post about jackets and coats, rules are a little different here when it comes to the base patterns.

Here are rules to keep in mind for your sewing patterns:
1) The side seams are always mirrored
2) On a woven top, the side seam considers the dart when it’s closed
3) On a knit top, the back armhole does not need to be lower than the front. (The stretch in a knit allows for movement.)
4) On a woven top, the shoulder slope is often less angled in the back to allow for the ease of movement of the shoulder blade.
5) On a woven top, the back armhole does not have to be lower than the front armhole. However, it can be up to about 1/4”.
6) If the back armhole is too low on a blouse/ tight fitted top, it will actually restrict the movement when you reach your arms forward.

Good News: Gina Renee Designs’patterns are always balanced! If you are using a Gina Renee pattern, you can skip these steps.

This information and more can be found in The Fitting Book. Order your book today through the link below.

Learn the 3-Step Fitting Process:

A) Identify the Fitting Issue.

B) Pin, Cut, & Tape the Fitting Sample.

C) Correct the Sewing Pattern.

The Fitting Book Includes:




My Secret in Diagonal Draglines


It’s Time to Sew Clothes You Love that Fit.