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Full Bust Adjustment – When Having or Adding Side Darts

Here is a hot topic: Full Bust Adjustments!

Most sewing patterns are made with B-cup bust sizes, meaning that if you have a larger bust cup size, you’ll likely need to do a full bust adjustment (also known as FBA).

This is the more standard method of slashing and spreading. Here you’ll see it with only a side dart.
1. If you have a tight bust area, cut open your sample as shown, stopping just before you get to the armhole.
2. Open the amount needed, tape, pin, and measure it.
3. Come back to the pattern and slash it open as shown, stopping just before the armhole. And on the side dart line, stopping just before the Apex.
4. Allow the Apex to open the amount you measured in your sample.
5. Then, allow the side panel to drop down until it reaches a parallel line on the vertical cut line.
6. This will be the amount you add to your pattern piece. Your dart becomes deeper.
7. Your dart position may need to change to where the Apex is. Since you opened it up, this has lowered our dart. Many times, you don’t need to change the dart position.

The only downside of it is that it also increases your waist. If you don’t need the waist/hem to become bigger, slim it down on the side seams.

Have you ever done an FBA before!??? 😊💜

This information and more can be found in The Fitting Book. Order your book today through the link below.

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  • A) Identify the Fitting Issue.
  • B) Pin, Cut, & Tape the Fitting Sample.
  • C) Correct the Sewing Pattern.
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