Narrow Shoulders Corrections – Slash and Spread
This correction is very similar to the “shoulders too wide” correction, but instead of slashing the amount shut, we are actually opening it. The issue comes from the Low Point Shoulder (LPS) being too high at the armhole area. You may have draglines from being too tight in the “across front” area.
1. Slash open the armhole at the LPS. Tape and pin the amount you want to increase the across shoulder area at the armhole.
2. Measure the amount you’ve taped and note it down.
3. Mark your bodice pattern with a straight line from about 1/3 of the way up the shoulder seam to the curve of the armhole.
4. Draw a second line from the LPS to the midway area of the first line.
5. Cut along those lines, to zero at the armhole join and zero at the LPS
6. Slash the main line and open it -the same amount you’ve taped.
7. The second line will join the shoulder seam and you will redraw the shoulder seam straight again.
8. Don’t forget to do the same correction to the back bodice piece.
The good thing about this correction: the sleeve does not need to be adjusted because the armhole is the same.
The bad thing is that the shoulder slope is no longer the same. It’s been adjusted and has a slightly different slope.
This information and more can be found in The Fitting Book. Order your book today through the link below.