Top Pattern correction for a Small Bust adjustment (SBA).
Follow this correction for styles with Darts or NO darts.
a) identify the issue – The bust is loose, there is excess at the bust area.
B) Pinning the problem (when you’ve already sewn a muslin/toile): Pin the excess area you have at the front bust area and measure the amount you’ve pinned.
C) Correcting the problem: Cut/Slash the pattern as shown.
1. Stop cutting when you get 1/16” the armhole.
2. If you have no dart, then you’ll cut in the area where a dart would normally be.
3. Stop cutting when you get 1/16” from the bust cutting line.
For an easier reference, the pattern will look like the second image this after you’ve cut it. I’ve changed the colors for you to see each piece better.
Close the pattern as shown by overlapping the bust the amount you’ve measured on your muslin.
1. The amount closed at the dart is automatically determined once you make the vertical bust line parallel.
2. The Vertical bust line – in pink (dashed line) – will be parallel all the way down.
3. The amount you close in the blue section is only to get this piece to fit into the other side.
You’ll mark where your Apex is. Then the dart point will be about 1” away for cup size C, 1 1/2” away for cup sizes D,E and 2” away for cup sizes bigger than E.
After you’ve marked the new dart legs, fold the dart shut. Use your tracing wheel over the dart to get the new dart side seam shaping. If your overlapped pieces show no dart, then you can skip the dart and eliminate it.
Smooth out the armhole for a nice curve. You’re done! Great work!
Your dart depth will now be less deep. In styles where you have no dart, there will be no dart! 🙂