How to Draft a Neckline Binding Pattern so it Fits Perfectly

Whether you’re an experienced sewist or just starting your journey in sewing and design, I’m here to help you draft a perfectly fitting neckline ribbing or binding piece. In this post, I’ll show you my personal method, which I’ve found to be quite accurate over the years. No more gaping necklines or unsightly puckering—let’s get that fit just right every time. Plus, you can download a handy calculator to determine the stretch percentage of your neckline ribbing piece.

Why Drafting the Neckline Binding Matters

Drafting the neckline binding correctly is crucial to reduce gaping and puckering along the seam. It ensures that your garment looks and feels great when worn. Whether you’re creating ribbing or binding, the drafting process is the same; it’s the sewing and workmanship that differ.

Understanding Ribbing vs. Binding

Ribbing wraps around toward the back of the garment and is folded in on both sides, like binding the neckline edge. On the other hand, binding is sewn into the seam without wrapping around the edge. Both provide a different style and fit.

Drafting Your Neckline Ribbing

To draft your neckline ribbing, follow these steps:

1. Determine Height: Decide on the ribbing’s height, which can be found on your original pattern. Measure the seam allowance on each end, find the halfway point, and mark it as your ribbing’s height.

2. Mark on Pattern: Mark this height on your pattern away from the seam line.

3. Measure Pattern: Measure the pattern from the fold line (the ribbing’s fold line) to the seam line, excluding the seam allowance at the shoulder seam.

4. Draft Ribbing: On a piece of paper, draft the ribbing’s height (e.g., 3/8 inch or 1 centimeter) and the length you measured. This forms your ribbing pattern, with the fold line in the center.

5.Add Seam Allowance: Add seam allowances matching those on the body piece. Remember that the center front is on the fold, so no seam allowance is needed there.

6. Determine Notches: Mark notches where you want the curve to begin. This is a more precise method than dividing the neckline into equal parts. Place a notch at the shoulder seam for alignment.

7. Extend Notches: Extend the notches down to the ribbing’s cut line.

8. Fold and Cut: Fold the center front, and your ribbing pattern is ready.

 Checking the Stretch Factor

To avoid overstretching, check the stretch factor between the ribbing and the seam line, especially in areas with the smallest measurement difference. Use the FREE stretch percentage calculator to ensure a good fit. A general guideline is that the ribbing should stretch up to half of the fabric’s stretch factor.

 Important Tip: Pre-Wash Your Fabrics

Always pre-wash your fabrics before sewing to prevent shrinkage that can lead to excessive puckering along the seam.

Download your FREE Stretch Percentage calculator through the form above.

Master Garment Ease: Make Pattern Corrections Before You Cut & Sew a Fitting Sample.